Honda VFR400 NC24 Brake Caliper Overhaul


NC24 Brake System

The VFR400R NC24 (and NC21) uses a style of calipers that were popular on many bikes of the time, known as the two piston sliding caliper, manufactured by the well known Nissin Corporation. Due to several key points that we’ll discuss below this design was used on many bikes will into the 1990’s like on the CBR600F and even still today on many lower-end bikes this type of caliper is still used.

Modern day performance bikes and even the later VFR400R NC30 all use what is known as a fixed caliper, opposed piston design.

How does it work?

The caliper is composed of two parts...

As the brake is applied the pistons force the brake pad in the fixed part against the disc... this movement causes the adapter part to be pulled against the other side of the disc applying the brake pad on that side also.

Advantages

Disadvantages


Causes of problems.

Despite the negatives listed, if these calipers are kept in good working order and decent pads are used they work well with the bike. Problems arise mainly from a combination of neglect and age. These bikes are 20+ years old now and parts do wear out and need replacing. After reading this entire guide you should be familiar with how the calipers work, how to overhaul them and apply any of the knowledge, where needed to your own braking system.

This biggest killer of sliding caliper braking systems is neglect & poor maintenance.

Lack of Movement (Seized Sliders)

The sliding "pins" that allow the caliper to move have very often seized solid on many bike I’ve seen for sale. This dramatically limits the performance of the caliper.

The two sliding pins have a very tight fitting rubber ‘boot’ seal which keeps grease in and dirt out. Many factors cause this seal to fail and allow dirt / grime into the caliper and stop the slide from working.

These are usually:

Poor brake lines

If the bike still has its original Honda rubber lines on these should be changed. Honda recommends 6 years on all of their rubber lines as a service interval. While your lines may not have failed yet there is an increased likelihood of them leaking, bulging or failing all together. Having no brakes at all wouldn’t be very safe, and a new set of braided lines come in all shapes, sizes and designs and don’t cost too much money.

Fitting the new lines a 2-line ‘race’ setup will improve lever feel.

Poor master cylinder

The master cylinder has rubber seals inside it, just like the brake calipers do, it isn’t uncommon for this to be worn, if you have overhauled the calipers and fitted new lines and fluid and are still suffering poor braking performance a ‘rebuild kit’ is available for the master cylinder.

Poor brake pads

Budget pads are cheap for a reason. While a £9.00 set of Kyoto brand pads may be ok for slow city commuting do you want to put what could ultimately be your life in the hands of some cheap brake pads for the sake of £20-30?

My personal favourite brake pad for these bikes is the original Honda pad, they can be had for around £8.00 each, £15.50 at a main-dealer and 4 are required. (45105MN4008)

Worst-case that’s about £75.00 for a set of genuine pads Inc vat and delivered. Many people won’t want to pay that much, so if going for budget I suggest to spend at least £20.00 on a set. £40.00 total price.

From a personal perspective, the genuine Honda pads have the best ‘feel’ and performance in both wet and dry conditions of any pad I’ve tried, the longevity of these pads is also very high. If it is decided to keep the bike for any length of time or do serious riding I really stress the importance of these pads.


Overhaul Procedure

There is no point at all only overhauling part of a brake caliper if you need to do work on the braking system.

It is false economy.

The time, money and parts needed to take the calipers off the bike, remove the fluid and change components can be saved by combining all the tasks into one job. Not only will you save time but you’ll have a full new set of calipers that won’t need to be messed with until 6 months later when some maintenance ‘inspection’ is carried out.

After all, you wouldn’t buy a new car only to fill the engine up with used oil would you?

Part Description Quantity Price ea. Total Price.
Piston Seals 4 £2.95 £11.80
Piston Dust Seals 4 £2.00 £8.00
Boot (B) 2 £2.75 £5.50
Boot Pin(A) 2 £1.70 £3.40
Red Rubber Grease 1 £3.50
Slider Pin Grease 1 £3.50
Copper Grease 1 £3.50
Brake Fluid 1 £9.99
Total Inc VAT + Delivery £60.00

I have not included brake lines or brake pads as the cost varies too much and will depend on personal preferences and budgets.

The total procedure should take between 2 – 4 hours.

Red GreaseOrange Grease

Overhaul

  1. The first step is to remove the brake calipers from the bike and disconnect the brake hoses. Have a tub ready to catch fluid that drips from the calipers when the hoses are disconnected. It is good practice to remove the pads and squeeze the lever several times to expose the pistons; this will make them easier to remove later.
  2. Once the brake calipers are removed from the bike, pull the pistons out by turning them as you pull them, occasionally the pistons will be stuck, compressed air, forced into the brake fluid hole will expel the piston. Be VERY careful when doing this as the piston will come out at great force, keep fingers WELL clear! Carry on disassembling the calipers by removing the rubber seals. Do not use a sharp instrument to remove the piston seals as this can damage the caliper irreparably.
    Caliper
  3. With the calipers fully dissembled as in the picture above clean everything off with kerosene (paraffin), brake cleaner etc and allow it to fully dry. Make sure the grooves that hold the dust / caliper seals are clean and free from corrosion. Inspect the pistons for signs of wear and scoring marks along the plastic sides. All the old rubber seals and brake pads can now be thrown away. Keep everything else safe.
    Caliper
  4. Get all of your new seals ready and make sure you are familiar with what seal goes where. As you can see in the example below, one of my ‘boot’ seals has swollen to over double its size. I believe this was due to fork oil and neglect.
    Caliper
  5. The first seal I fit after cleaning and drying the caliper is the boot seal, a new seal is easy to fit as it isn’t swollen and the correct size. Squeeze the end with the hole in it together and press it into the caliper, it is a little fiddly at first but it will go in.
    Caliper
  6. Use the red rubber grease to apply a thin film of grease inside the piston holes, also apply rubber grease to the piston and dust seals before fitting these. Cross reference part numbers to make sure you are fitting the correct seals. The piston seal is the farthest one in the caliper, with the dust seal being the one closes to the outside of the caliper.
    Caliper
  7. Fit both sets of seals to each piston orifice and then lightly lubricate the pistons with the red grease before sliding them all the way into the holes, the pistons are the same size so either can be used. Make sure the fit the piston squarely to avoid dislodging the caliper seal.
    Caliper
  8. The other boot seal can be fitted to the mounting bracket, this locates into a lip in the bracket, and the two slider pins can now be coated with the orange slider grease. Do not over-lubricate these. Use a bit of copper grease to lightly coat the metal caps of the pistons where they make contact with the brake pad... use some copper grease on the back of the other pad where it contacts the caliper, there is no need to totally coat the brake pad. This will just serve as a method to trap dirt if you do.
  9. Install the brake pads and then press the caliper back together making sure the sliders are level and they locate properly on the rubber boots, wipe off any excess grease that’s been expelled.
    Caliper

Fluid / Lines

Now that the calipers are ready, refit them to the bike, install the new brake lines and refill / bleed the system with new fluid. New pads will need to ‘bed’ in over the next 50 – 100 miles so apply the brakes progressively but not too often until they have finally bedded in.


Last Updated: 10th April 2010 @ 14:55:18

Valid XHTML 1.0 Strict

Valid CSS!